When first booking this trip, we had no idea we would be visiting during the Songkran festival, commonly known as Thailand’s traditional New Year. From April 13th through the 15th, this holiday falls in the hottest time of the year, at the end of the dry season when temperatures reach around 100F. Songkran was first celebrated only in the northern part of the country, thought to have been brought here by the Burmese, who borrowed it from the Indian Holi festival. It quickly spread across Thailand in the mid 20th century and is now observed even down in the far south. However, the most famous Songkran celebrations are still in the northern city of Chiang Mai (exactly where we are staying) and continues for six days, if not longer. It has also become a party for foreigners and an additional reason for many to visit Thailand for immersion in another culture.
The most obvious characteristic of this celebration is throwing of water. At first, I am a bit baffled by the entire scene, especially when we are unexpectedly hit with a starling splash while driving home last evening. What feels like the entire population of Chiang Mai, from young children to older grandmothers, roams the streets with water to toss at each other far beyond the point of saturation. Everyone is armed with different types of water guns, from super deluxe supersoakers to ones with built-in shields for protection. Others carry tanks strapped to backs, with long tubes to reach far distances. Large pails, buckets, water bottles and garden hoses are all utilized that amount in the largest water fight I have ever experienced. Many are creative and design their own deadly weapons.
Pick-up trucks are loaded with people and barrels of water who pour out potfuls on passersby. The main activity area and water supply source is the moat located around the city. Although this water is often dirty and mucky, people splash, swim and play in it without hesitation. There is not a single person who is dry; everyone is completely soaked. Music is blasting and people are dancing in the streets. Alcohol is flowing fast and freely. Belongings are carried in thick plastic bags and raincoat coverings. Streets are flooded, cramped in a mess of bodies, motorbikes, tuks tuks and cars. I sense this can be highly dangerous, even bordering on disastrous as everything is so wet and slippery.
Brian and I are amazed at the scene, as we foolishly attempt to drive through the town, getting stuck in over an hour of traffic. During this madness, we are literally wet hundreds of times. Water gun squirts against my back, pails are poured down necks. Half the time we are laughing, the other half we are complaining. Sometimes I just want a short break without water be thrown on me. Never in New York, we adamantly agree, would anything like this ever happen. Too many fights would break out as New Yorkers don’t have a sense of humor and play quite like the Thais do.
Sometimes the water is ice cold and momentarily paralyzes. Other times it is warm and a refreshing treat from the extreme heat. In one instance, a young Thai adolescent stops to greets us. “Welcome to Thailand,” he says, as he dumps a huge bucket of water over my head. I can’t help but chuckle at how surreal the whole celebration feels. Ironically, everyone is in such good spirits and enjoying themselves so immensely that it becomes difficult to get upset or mad. It is absolutely unavoidable to remain dry. In fact, you are considered fresh meat and highly sought after if you appear even remotely dry. Getting drenched is an absolute certainty. I find the small children most amusing, as they make eye contact, smile innocently and shoot us right in the eye or ear or some other uncomfortable location. It is sheer madness, chaos beyond words as I struggle to convey just what it feels like to be immersed in this scene.
The huge water fight was not always the main activity of this festival. Rather, it was traditionally a time used to visit elders, family members and friends. The water throwing originated as a means to pay respect, a symbol to wash all of the bad away captured after it is poured over a Buddha statue. Using this "blessed" water , it was then gently poured on the shoulder to give good fortune. Sometimes it is filled with fragrant herbs when celebrated in this traditional manner.
Among young people and foreigners alike, the emphasis is on fun and water-throwing rather than on the festival's spiritual and religious aspects. This has prompted serious complaints and outcries to moderate the festival in order to alleviate the many alcohol-related road accidents and injuries attributed to extreme behavior such as water being thrown in the faces of traveling motorcyclists. Certainly, not what I call “fun!”
As part of the festival, especially in cities such as Chiang Mai, Buddha images from all of the city's important wats are paraded through the streets so that people can toss water at them. Ritually, this is considered 'bathing' the images, as they pass by on ornately decorated floats. It is believed that doing this will bring good luck and prosperity for the New Year. Brian and I are fortunate to experience this firsthand, walking alongside the parade as it crosses through the length of the city. We too, get doused with water again and again, oftentimes stuck in the crossfire. At the end of the day, we are exhausted, still soaked and happy to have made it back to our hotel safely. A hot shower never felt so good, as the grim and dirt of the moat’s water is washed away.
1 comment:
Incredible!!!
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